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This month we've decided on a Back to the Basics overview of needlepoint, covering everything from materials and supplies to basic stitches, plus tips on using scroll frames and product recommendations. In this issue of Ideas and Inspirations from Discount Needlework:

1. Getting started with Needlepoint - canvas, yarn, and needle

2. Basic Needlepoint stitches, complete with diagrams

3. Scroll frames -  an essential tool

4. Recommended Products

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There are four basic things you need when starting on a needlepoint project: canvas, yarn, needles, and a pattern. Let us first start with the types of needlepoint canvas:

Canvas

Mono, as you can see, is a simple single-thread weave. Mono is usually bought by the yard, and is often used for hand-painted designs, though not so much in kits. Of the three types of canvas, mono is probably the hardiest, and will withstand wear, weight, and elaborate stitching better that the other kinds. However, it is most prone to distortion during stitching, so extra care must be taken when mounting this kind of canvas. Mono comes in a variety of colors.
 

Interlock is a locked-weave canvas made of double-threads, but unlike penelope the threads cannot be separated for petit point. Interlock is the most economical in terms of price, and is the type of canvas used in most needlepoint kits. The flat surface is ideal for printed designs. Interlock is not quite a sturdy as mono, so it may not be suitable for items that will receive a lot of wear. Interlock is typically available in white cotton only. Sizes for both interlock and mono are expressed as such: 10 count, 12 count, etc, or 10 mesh, 12 mesh, etc.

Penelope (also called "double-weave") is a durable double-threaded canvas used most often in tapestries (printed screens/scrims) and upholstery cushions. It is a versatile fabric, in that it can be worked in gros point using the larger holes, or petit point using the smaller holes. Sizes for penelope are expressed as such: 10/20, 12/24, the first number referring to the large (gros point) holes, the smaller referring to the small (petit point) holes. Penelope is usually either white or brown, though the shade of brown varies widely, from light as straw to a dark tan.

The size (or gauge) of canvas is determined by number of squares per inch; so for example, if you took a ruler to a piece of canvas and counted 18 holes in one inch, then you have 18 count canvas. With mesh counts, the higher the number, the smaller the holes.

Yarn

Fibers used for needlepoint include a wide range of materials from metallics to ribbons to scraps of fabric in addition to wide variety of synthetic threads, though the most common materials are 6-ply cotton floss and wool yarn. Embroidery floss, frequently included in needlepoint kits, is usually used with smaller meshes (such as 18 ct) and is not plied. Wool yarn is bar far the most widely used needlepoint fiber, so we shall explore this material further.

There are four types of wool yarn:

Persian - 3-ply 100% wool yarn, the most popular type of yarn for traditional needlepoint. Paternayan is a well-known brand name which boasts over 400 colors, and is also the favored yarn here at Discount Needlework. Because it is 3-ply, Persian is wonderfully versatile. Use a single ply on smaller meshes, or all three plies for a larger mesh. It can also be doubled up for use on rug canvas.

Tapestry - 4-ply 100% wool yarn. Although tapestry yarn has 4 strands, it is not meant to separated - that is, you're not supposed to ply it. It's used all as one strand. Tapestry yarn feels smoother and silkier to the touch than Persian yarn because of long, tightly twisted fibers, though it is not as versatile.

Crewel - 2-ply 100% wool yarn, very similar in look and feel to Persian yarn. While crewel yarn is typically used for embroidery, it is quite suitable for petit point. Elsa Williams brand crewel yarn (which is 2-ply) uses the same color catalogue as Paternayan Persian yarn. Other brands are available with 1, 3, or 5 plies.

Nantucket - tightly twisted 4-ply, comparable to a 2-ply strands of Persian wool. The finished look and feel is similar to tapestry wool, but these days it's very hard to find.

While there are numerous methods of storing yarn, the easiest we've found is to first cut the yarn into workable lengths (30-36" is good), and to then to make a big loop knot by folding the length in half and knotting the looped end. You can then tie tags to the loops, indicating the color and dye lot. It's also not a bad idea to hang on to original labels if you have them, just in case you put your project away and forget what brand/color/dye lot you were using.

Needles
and other supplies

There is considerable variety when it comes to needles and notions, but the three key items are a set of good-quality needles, a sharp pair of fine-pointed thread snips, and something to store your needles - either an emery-filled pincushion, or a needle case with a magnet. When it comes to buying needles, spend the extra buck or two for the nicer brand. Needles are an important tool, so look for quality. Low-quality needless that typically come in kits have a tendency to bend and break, which can be frustrating for you and disastrous to your needlework!

For complete information on choosing the appropriate needles for your project, please see our article entitled "Eight Steps for Choosing the Right Needle." For needlepoint you'll use large-eyed needles with blunt-tips that prevent splitting your yarn or piercing your canvas in the wrong place. For most projects, a good 20-22 assortment is good. Oh, and a yarn threader is a very good investment! Get one of those flat metal ones instead of regular wire needle threaders. They'll last a lot longer.

Patterns

Because needlepoint is an art that's been around for hundreds of years, there is no shortage on designs and how-to books. While there are lots of excellent books being printed today (with diagrams and detailed color photos) some of the best needlepoint books were actually printed in the 1970's when needlepoint, weaving, and rug making were enjoying fad status. Many of these resources have wound up in public libraries, so that is a cost-free option for finding designs. Other places to look include book resale shops like Half Price, the internet (try searching for "free needlepoint patterns"), eBay and other auction-oriented sites, Great Aunt Roberta's attic, or any local bookstore for newly printed books.

If you don't want to work from scratch, however, there is plenty to savor in the world of hand-painted needlepoint canvases. www.discountneedlework.com carries dozens upon dozens of hand-painted canvases, thought they can also be found and needlework and craft shops. Sometimes needlepoint canvases come printed with a design, such as in needlepoint kits. Scroll down to "Recommended Products" for links to the brands we carry.

Preworked canvases are also an attractive option for those wanting to recover chairs, stools, or make pillows. Because the design has been stitched for you, all you have to do is fill in the background. Usually what you'll find is designs in a floral motif, though sometimes you can find animals, people, and lovely scenes of gardens or landscapes.

 

 Needlepoint is a decorative art, and over time, many decorative stitches have evolved along-side practical canvas-covering stitches, allowing the design to take on a three-dimensional character of its own. But first you've got to know the basics. Here we've included several of the fundamental stitches, but you can find lots more decorative stitches in craft books or online.

First we'll start with the tent stitch and its variations:

 The "tent stitch" is a blanket term for used for a slanted stitch that is worked diagonally over the intersection of two canvas threads. Because it is a small, flat stitch, it is often used for entire designs.

Also called "half stitch," the half-cross stitch is a tent stitch worked in left-to-right or bottom-to-top. It is economical in terms of yarn usage, but should only be used on double-weave canvas because it distorts mono.

The continental stitch is a tent stitch good for outlining and filling small areas. It is not as good for larger areas because the back-and-forth stitching can distort your canvas. Work right-to-left, then left-to-right, and so on.

While the front of the basket-weave stitch looks like a tent stitch, the back resembles a woven basket, hence its name. This extremely durable stitch uses more yarn per inch than the other tent stitches, but if you're making something to last or filling in large areas, this is the stitch to use.

Other useful stitches:

 The bargello stitch (also called flame stitch or florentine) uses long, straight stitches, usually over four threads. The stitch can be worked horizontally or vertically, and adds and attractive pattern to even single-color areas. It's a quick way to fill in background, as well. Bargello canvas can be purchased, in addition to mono, interlock, and penelope.

The chain stitch is used for outlining as well as filling. It is the exact same stitch as utilized in traditional embroidery, adapted for needlepoint. When worked in several vertical rows, it resembles knitting and can add an interesting texture to your project.

The cross-stitch in needlepoint in done in much the same manner as regular cross-stitching, only on a larger scale. It can be done over one, over two, or over three threads. It's a good background stitch because it doesn't distort canvas, but save it for smaller meshes.

The smyrna stitch is one of many star-shaped stitches that expand upon the simple cross stitch. Star stitches are usually used for decorative accents, though some of the larger star stitches (such as diamond eyelet or double leviathan) can be used for larher areas, creating interesting patterns in single-color backgrounds.
 

The scotch stitch (also called flat stitch, diagonal flat stitch, and diagonal satin stitch) is made with either five or seven diagonal stitches, creating a checkerboard pattern. It is a quick way to fill in backgrounds, but careful to mount your project well because it can distort canvas. Rotating squares and adding french knots at intersections creates a decorative look.

Additional tips for stitching:

Cutting yarn into workable lengths - A strand of thread should never be longer than the inside of your arm, though it's better to go shorter with wool because knots are difficult to get out. 30" lengths are good, but you may want to go as short as 18"

Preventing knots - As you stitch, you may notice your thread starts to twist and tangle. This is easy to fix. Every few stitches simply let your needle drop and hang, and your thread will unwind. Avoiding using wax to ease stitching. It feels unpleasant and can discolor your canvas.

Avoid using knots altogether - Knotting the end of a new thread is fine for sewing, but with needlework they should be avoided. Knots on the back will create bumps on the front, no matter how much you iron. To start a new thread, either tuck the end of your new strand under stitching you've already done and proceed, or make a "waste knot" by knotting the end of your yarn, threading front-to-back, stitching over the tail, and once it's secure, snipping off the knot.

Working with the grain - Yarn, like fabric or wood, has a "grain" which is created from being twisted in one direction. To find the grain, run the strand through your fingers and see which direction feels smoother. stitching "with the grain" not only prevents knots, but it reduces the amount of loose fibers sent into the air as you stitch (essential if you're allergy-prone), and creates a smoother, cleaner appearance when completed.

To get more info on Paternayan Persian yarn, please visit our Paternayan Yarn page.

To see our other thread lines, please click to go to our Threads and Fibers page.
 

The right tools make any project better, and when it comes to doing needlepoint, a scroll frame is a wise investment. Because of the thickness of canvas and embroidery hoop is inadvisable. A good scroll frame will keep your canvas straight and taut, as well as free both hands for faster stitching.

Although there are many types of frames and dowels, we like K's Creations frames, which have a very good record of quality and customer satisfaction. For in-depth information on K's frames and how to properly use scroll frames, please sign up for our info-packed Needlework Frames article. In this newsletter we've decided to include a basic trouble-shooting guide to help you get acqainted with your frame.

Q: Okay, I've got my canvas, I've got my frame... now how do I put it together?

A: First, you've got to attach your fabric to the dowels, which are designed to be removed so you can switch out projects and store them. Some dowels have slots to insert your fabric, and some dowels require that you attach velcro. But if you want a really secure project that won't slip or snag, get the dowels with strips of fabric running down the sides. Baste or machine-sew your canvas to the dowels, as straight as possible to avoid slack.

Q: I've sewn my canvas onto the dowels. Is there anything I can do about the floppy edges?

A: Sure is. To complete the mounting process, use a nice, strong piece of thread to lace the canvas to the side bars with looping stitches at 1 in. intervals (depending on the the size of your project and its frame). To prevent unraveling, line the edges of your canvas with binding tape, such the the kind used for rugs. A sticky electrical tape will work in a pinch, but you'll have to cut the edges off once you're done. Lacing may seem tedious because it will have to be redone every time you scroll up or down, but the more careful you are in mounting your canvas properly, the less need you'll have for blocking it (reshaping with stretching and a steam iron) once you're done.

Q: I've sewn my canvas to the dowels and laced the edges, but there are still some sagging in places. What can I do?

A: Sometimes when you buy canvas, it's not the best quality in the world (such as in some kits), or it's been warped from being improperly stored, or maybe despite your best efforts, you stitched crooked. Whatever the cause, it's very easy to fix. Simply take some thin tissue paper or un-dyed toilet paper, unwind your dowel a bit, and insert the tissue in the crevice. When you roll the canvas back up the fabric should be nice and taut. It may take a little trial-and-error to get it just right.

For more information on the frames and stands we carry, please see our Needlework Frames page!
 

Now that you've got lots of information at your fingertips, it's time to get started! Discount Needlework sells mono, penelope, interlock, and bargello canvas by the yard, though we also have smaller project pieces available.

If you're not sure what scroll frame is right for you, we suggest starting with a standard base lap frame, which fits projects 10"-21" in width, as well as most kits (leave at least a half-inch on each side). You can order the frame with any size dowels, and dowels can also be ordered separately as your projects vary, as can scroll frames and side bars. If you tend to work on small projects, the La Petite is an economical option for novices as well as experts. It is similar to the Z-frame in that one side is open, which some stitchers prefer. Left-handed? Just flip it around, it works the same!

For more tips on stitching as well as additional stitch designs, we've got a couple of booklets you might find useful. Click to see our needlepoint books. Don't forget to check out our assortment of needles, as well as other handy notions by LoRan, Clover, and others.

We hope you've enjoyed our newsletter and have found some useful information. If you have any questions about and of the products we offer, please feel free to contact us by email or phone. Stay tuned for next month's addition... Back to the Basics of Cross-Stitch!

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Happy stitching from Catherine, Karen, Leigh et al
www.discountneedlework.com
Send us your questions:  sew ATdiscountneedlework.com
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